A good friend asked me if I have had good experience with natural dyeing with cotton fabric. I told her that I had some bad ones and a few fair to good results. Unlike silk, wool, mohair, and alpaca which are classified as protein fiber–cotton, linen, or viscose are cellulose fiber, they require extra preparation and usually don’t print as well with natural dyes. In order for it to uptake the natural dyes, the fiber has to be pre-mordant with one or more of the following chemicals: tannin, alum, soy milk, soda ash, milk, and sea water.
To make the dye fix to the cellulose fiber, it is usually treated with a “mordant“. This is a chemical process which affixes itself to the fiber and in turn, the dye sticks to the chemical. The common method that most dyers use to mordant cotton and linen is “alum-tannin-alum”, which is a three-step process. I’ve tried this method before and found it was time-consuming; as the fabric needs to be aired dried between each step. See below for picture of the result from this process.
I thought there has to be another method, thus I was determined to find another easier and simpler process. I remembered an article I read about soymilk, and how one dyer in Japan used it to mordant cotton and linen. So, I’ve decided to give it a tryout last weekend with unsweetened soy milk from the grocery. I pre-scoured my cellulose fabric with washing soda to remove any chemicals, rinsed and then soaked it in store bought soy milk overnight. The following day, I simply wrung out the soy milk, and dried the fabric in the summer heat. Finally, I soaked the dried fabric in a solution of alum, soda ash, and rain water overnight; wrung it out and then layered plant materials on the pre-mordant fabric. When I am happy with the layout, I bundled it up tightly and boil in a simmering onion dye bath. Tip: I always soaked the leaves used in vinegar and some iron water.
Saving the best for last……
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Interesting!
I only use soy milk on my cellulose fibers, although there is tannin in the rainwater since I’m gathering it from my rain gutters (which aren’t very clean!).
Your results are lovely!
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Thank you jschubert, I think the alum also makes a difference. It brightens and brings out much yellow in euca and other leaves. I may be wrong…nature is still my teacher. Thanks for dropping by:):)
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Lovely! THanks for sharing all this information. Has the last one also been soaked in soy and alum mordanted? Also have you noticed amy rapid fading of the colors with washing and light exposure?
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Hi Karen,
All the cotton and linen in this post has been mordant with soy and alum, except for one, I did another dip in seawater for experiment. That’s the one in bundled with copper. Thanks for your follow:)
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Hi Karen, this is the first time I gotten good results from cotton, so not sure about the colors fading from washing and light exposure. I would assume like all things dyed in natural dyes should be treated with gentle wash and not direct sunlight. Hope this helps
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Gorgeous, I love golden yellow so much. You hit my bell to try soy milk. Great experiments with cotton. Will try with alum to get your pretty yellow. Thanks for sharing.
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You are most welcome Terriea. Yellow is my fave color too:)
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Thanks for sharing your process Melinda! I’ve been dabbling for a while with eco-dying and am really enthused after taking a few more classes!
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you are welcome, natural dyeing can be addictive and fun. There are so many and much to explore. Happy printing:)
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The yellows are so rich,!!!lovely work
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Thanks Cedar, I love the results too.
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How was the result of soy milk and seawater mordanted cotton fabric?
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Hi Carolina, for some reasons the seawater didnt do much difference….I preferred the results with soymilk.
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Oh thank you, I am inspired to go back to natural dyeing again!
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that nice to know 🙂
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Nice work! You have done some very nice things and I am re-inspired to work on my eco prints. Just need to find more time to concentrate on it. I am especially glad you did this on cotton and linen – I am very interested in natural dye on those fibers. Also – Thanks for visiting my blog and your nice comments.
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Thank you, I am inspired and mystified with indigo..your blog is beautiful
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but alum-tannin- alum CAN be dried in the dryer, so why waste time with air drying? 🙂
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taking advantage of the sun 🙂
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Soy milk works wonder on cellulose.
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I’m just beginning dyeing with botanicals. So informative. Thank you.
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thanks for your lovely comment, happy dyeing
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Thank you for your lovely and inspiring comment.
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Hi again, thanks gain for your most inspiring post. I love Threadborne!
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Thanks for your inspiration. Did you happen to compare soy milk vs. soy milk plus alum vs. soy milk plus alum plus soda ash? I am starting my experiments next week! Thank you
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soy milk and soda ash is correct
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This past summer I tried my hand at eco printing on watercolor paper. You might already be aware of this, but in case you’re not, I thought I’d share… blue morning glories!!! The color and clear design pattern of them is VIBRANT! Not sure how they would work on fabric….but hopefully next summer I can give it a try.
Thank you for sharing your tutorial! You are talented and inspiring!
Dawn
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Hello, I am glad you find my blog inspiring.
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Thank you, I am glad you find this post inspiring
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